Kingham Plough, Stow

PUBLISHED: 17:23 15 December 2010 | UPDATED: 11:42 28 February 2013

Not content with slagging off Stow a couple of years back, Sunday Times critic AA Gill slaughters the Cotswolds again while on his way to review the Kingham Plough. Well at least it was a good review...

Writing in today's Sunday Times Style magazine, restaurant critic AA Gill indulges in his favourite pastime (when not shooting baboons) of putting the boot into our "honey-coloured hell on earth". Here's a sample.

"So it was with a leaden expectation and a puckering stomach that the Blonde and I loaded up the twins and hove up the M40, the road of tears, to the land that humility and the Luftwaffe forgot. The Cotswolds. Oxfordshire, Gloucestershire honey-coloured hell on earth. Darfur with thatch. Stow-on-the-Wold is kitsch Mordor. But this isnt really the country, is it? Its a suburban adventure playground for media folk. A sort of chilly safari park, a 4WD turbo pedigree dogging lay-by. I must admit that on a cold and bright winter Sunday, when you could see as far as civilisation, it did have a sparkling varnish of Vaughan Williams lyrical prettiness. Just as long as you kept moving."

You can read the full article here:

... but at least Emily Watkins' splendid pub emerged with four stars!

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